This is great! I have one that I no longer use due to the memory limitation (1TB?). This would be a great project... Thanks for sharing.
Final assembly and testing:
For now leave the case open. Verify ALL wiring and routing, check all connectors, and be sure there are no loose parts. Hook up a keyboard and monitor. Plug a mouse into an available USP port. Connect the AC power cord. The green standby light on the rear of the power supply should illuminate. Everything else should be off. Now depress the power switch, the blue led indicator should come on immediately. The "ON" indicator on the front panel will come on within a second or so and your monitor should display the following startup screen. Depress F2 on the keyboard and the BIOS page will be displayed. Your installed hardware should be reflected in the BIOS page. Make any changes for your specific operation. The default settings will work in most instances.
|Power on Screen||BIOS Page |
Browse the different setting in the BIOS, once you are done shutdown the system. Just depressing the power button will remove the power. This is also true once you system is running an operating system.
Loading an Operating System:
If you installed a CD/DVD rom you will be able to load directly from it. If you installed a secondary hard drive you will need to use an external USB CD/DVD drive. Another option is to copy and installation disk to a flash drive and boot from it. Also when loading a new operating system chances are you will need to load the Intel supplied driver disk. This can also be accomplished from an attached CD/DVD or files transferred to a flash drive. If you don't have access to the included software the system will not be able to configure the network adapter or take advantage of the high resolution graphics. When your system is bootable and stable don't forget to go to the Intel website for the latest BIOS download. My motherboard was a few versions behind. Now the fun begins, I successfully loaded and ran the following operating systems with excellent results on the DG41AN/E5300 Platform:
- Windows XP Pro 64bit
- Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
- Windows Home Server 2003 (ver. 1 and 3)
- Windows Home Server 2011
- Windows Small Business 2011
- Fedora Core 14
- Unbuntu and Mythbuntu
I didn't have time to load any more... That's up to you to try!
Congratulations, your done! Now the only thing left to do is to reward your new creation with a new badge!
The New Badge
My thanks to those who take the time to share their work making these upgrades possible for all.
The link for the Mini 24 Slimline to ATX adapter seems to be broken. Here is one on Amazon I think will work, but have not verified:
The KDMPower eBay store is still open at http://stores.ebay.com/KDMPOWER I think the link in the article here is garbled. However, the eBay store only has power supplies, no adapter cables.
Again, thanks for this great writeup.
Excellent. Appears to be the same as this item on Amazon:
I've got two of the MV2010 devices, one with a good motherboard and one which is bad. I already have an old PC running WHS performing backups of my home network. This sounds like a great project and the Atom ITX option is pretty inexpensive.
But I can't think of a use for one or two more little servers. Certainly I could reduce the power used by the WHS server.
I also have a Mac Mini and I am thinking of upgrading it to Mac OS X Lion which now includes server functions.
I really wish the HP Slimline case would hold my full-height WinTVR video capture card.
Great article! I have an mv2010 that still works perfectly, but I've been meaning to set up an E-350/Amahi server and using the power supply/case from the Media Vault will offset some of the cost ($50-$70). Rather than tap into the wiring/original connectors, I used the following:
1. P4 to 4-Pin Molex: http://www.amazon.com/CablesToBuy-Power-Supply-Connector-Adapter/dp/B0012SM2SC
2. Reset LED Wire Kit for ATX Case Front Bezel BEZELWRKIT: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00213KDQK
3. Molex Y Cable: http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Molex-Power-Supply-Splitter/dp/B001PI9AAC/ref=...
I simply removed the tray with the original LED inserts (it opens right up) and just set the new ones right it...nothing to it. I already had a blue LED with resistor tapped onto a 4-pin molex from an old case so that was easy, but if you aren't inclined to mess with soldering you can just use the left over LED from the Amazon kit and change the power button to a green LED (assuming your motherboard has the extra lead). This way I've kept all of my original parts intact (albeit for a minimal cost of under $10) for resale or if I ever want to put the mv2010 back to factory specs. You will also need a molex Y cable for this if you want to split the P4 and Hard Drive Tray leads.
I have two of these units HP MediaVault 2010 - can I use a ASUS P8H61-I (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel H61 HDMI USB 3.0 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard and put an i3 Intel in it? They have an i3 that is 35W and another that is 65W. The motherboard is $80 and the chip is $120. Add memory to that and it is roughly about $260. I would use it for a Media PC (the MB has HDMI)
Would it be worth doing that in your opinion?
Did anyone look at replacing the HP power supply with an standard ATX? Seems that would eliminate the cable issue as well as a common failure point -- the power supply. I haven't a clue if there is one that will fit.
The original power supply could be replaced by almost anyone Flex-ATX power supply. The metal hooks holding the original power supply could be easily bent toward the case side to make enough room for the standard Flex-ATX power supply. They are then held only by the screws at the back of the HP MV, but I think, it's OK, as the new PS is lighter and smaler.
In my case, I used FSP FSP220-60LE(80) 220W 1U Power Supply w/ 80PLUS, but it's quite noisy (small fan).
I'm still waiting for Intel D2700MUD mainboard to build a home server.
I replaced the original power switch with the reset switch from an old big AT case as well.
MediaVault was my first NAS. But I faced limitations of this gadget shortly after purchase. Tried to install 1 TB HDD and it worked (500 GB + 1 TB HDD). Then obtained 1 + 1 Zyxel NSA 2400, both equipped with 4x 1 TB HDD in RAID5 and retired MV.
I needed to test new microITX board (Intel D525MW) planned for my SmoothWall firewall in the same time. I didn't want to cut the connector from the original PS, ATX adapter was not available in my area (Europe, Slovakia) and for the price of shipping I was able to obtain the new PS. So I did. I was using this PC for about 1/2 year without any problem. I didn't even change the power switch, just rearranged the connector, so I needed to push the power button twice for turn it on and the same for turn-off. I enjoyed low power consumption (up to 40W) and PS built in the case (NSA-2400 and many other NAS have an external annoying big brick-shaped PS with 2 thick cables).
Then I returned to the original MV configuration (2x 5OO GB HDD). I tried Zyxel NSA-220, NSA-220 Plus and NSA-210 NAS-es as well, but they didn't impressed me. I was dissatisfied especially with NSA-210 due to lack of proper cooling. All of them have an external PS and they are really poor performers.
This time I need to build a new home server for multiple purposes (file store, testing AD administration, Win 2008 etc.). Formerly I was using separate NAS and testing PC, but I think, there is no reason to not concentrate them into one machine. This is my reason for turning MV into the home server. I could say, I'm inspired with Zyxel's NSA-220, which has many additional features available (bittorrent client, download service etc.). Separate NAS and test PC are almost never heavily loaded.
FSP PS performed very well. It's 220W PS, so it was working at about 30% of its nominal output.
The original PS has quite big 6x6 cm fan working on low rpm. The FSP has one 4x4 cm fan with variable rpm. It starts at low rpm but after 10-15 min. reaches full speed. According the HW monitor (on Intel D525MW) the temperature of the Intel Atom processor didn't reach 45C and HDD (Seagate Barracuda 7200.11) 42-43C. So there is no need to install any additional fan and server stayed quite quiet.
There are missing some holes at the front of MV for better HDD cooling (especially for built in HDD #1), but it could be partially solved by opening front door (temp. will drop of about 2-3C).
P.S. I didn't want to adapt (cut) power on switch (and original PS), because I wanted to have way back to MV original configuration (and original mainboard). I prefer to change the whole switch as I already mentioned.
Thanks so much for all your time and effort creating and publishing this guide. I have been using my Mediavault for many years and last month it gave up the ghost. Resets, nothing worked, bad motherboard.
I picked up a good deal on the Intel MB you mentioned and a dual core processor, did the mods and installed dual 2tb drives and loaded up with Windows home server which I pick up cheap on ebay.
Now I have a fast Media Smart Server clone for almost nothing. It's quiet, small and was made from something I was going to throw in the trash!
I loved my MediaVault but now that it is a WHS platform it's so much better.
Kudos to you and a fantastic article, I can't wait to see what you come up with next!